What glue to use for ceramic?

If you’ve ever stood over a shattered mug or a cracked tile and asked, “what glue to use for ceramic?”, you’re in the right place. Ceramic repair isn’t just about slapping on whatever adhesive you find in the junk drawer. Different ceramic types (glazed porcelain, earthenware, stoneware, terracotta) and different use-cases (decor, food contact, outdoor statues, bathroom tiles) demand different bonding chemistries, cure times, and prep. This guide gives you the science-backed, real-world advice you need — from the best adhesives for a dinner plate to what to use for a frost-exposed garden urn.

How to choose the right glue for ceramic: the key considerations

Before you pick a product, ask these questions — they determine the correct adhesive type:

• Is the ceramic glazed or porous? Glazed surfaces are slick and non-porous; they need adhesives that bond to smooth surfaces. Porous ceramics (terracotta, unglazed stoneware) can absorb liquid adhesives and often bond better with resins that can soak into pores.
• Will the repaired item touch food or drink? If yes, opt for FDA-approved food-safe epoxies or consider replacing the item (many glues are not food-safe even when cured).
• Is the item exposed to heat? Cookware or ovenware should ideally not be repaired for food safety and structural reasons; for non-food decorative pieces that get hot (lamps, kiln ware), use high-temperature ceramics adhesives or specialized cements.
• Will the item be outdoors or in water? Weatherproof and waterproof adhesives (marine epoxies, polyurethane, silicone) are necessary for outdoor statues, fountains, or pool tiles.
• Is the joint structural or cosmetic? A load-bearing tile on a floor needs a stronger, gap-filling adhesive than a decorative figurine glued for looks.
• Do you need gap filling or a thin seam? Some glues are very thin and need perfectly matching edges; others (epoxy putty, thickened epoxy) fill gaps and rebuild missing sections.
• How visible is the repair? Clear epoxies and colorable fillers work for invisible repairs; opaque adhesives that shrink or yellow might make the repair obvious.

Answering these helps you land on the correct category: cyanoacrylate (superglue), two-part epoxy, silicone/RTV, polyurethane, PVA (white glue), or cement/thinset/mastic.

Best adhesives for ceramic — what to use, when, and why

1) Two-part epoxy — the all-around champion

Best for: Broken pottery, ornaments, tiles (non-structural), ceramics exposed to moisture (when waterproof epoxy used), gap filling, food-safe options for cosmetic repair (but avoid food contact for structural repairs).

Why: Two-part epoxies (resin + hardener) create extremely strong, durable bonds. They come in viscosities from thin (capillary) to thick (putty) and can be clear or colorable. Many are waterproof and resistant to heat and chemicals. For ceramic, a clear, medium-viscosity, non-sag epoxy is often perfect: it seeps into micro-gaps on glazed surfaces and fills cracks in porous wares.

Use tips: Mix exactly by volume, apply thinly to both edges, clamp until cure, remove squeeze-out before it hardens. For visible seams, use a clear, non-yellowing epoxy and consider an epoxy with UV resistance.

Food safety note: Some epoxies are FDA-compliant when fully cured — check the label. Still, avoid repairing items used for hot food or frequent direct food contact.

2) Cyanoacrylate (CA / Superglue) — fast and tidy

Best for: Small breaks, hairline cracks, ceramic figurines, decorative ware, quick fixes.

Why: CA glue bonds very quickly to ceramic and glazed surfaces. It’s excellent for precise repairs and is great when time is of the essence. CA works best on well-fitted pieces (tight mating surfaces) — it doesn’t fill large gaps well.

Use tips: Clean and dry surfaces, apply a tiny amount, hold pieces in place for 10–60 seconds depending on the formula. For porous ceramics, apply CA accelerator (spray) to cure instantly; for gap filling, look for thickened CA or combine CA with baking soda (acts as a filler and accelerant).

Limitations: Brittle under flex, not ideal for large structural repairs or items exposed to heat/water long term. CA can fog or whiten (bloom) on some ceramics.

3) Silicone (RTV) — flexible and waterproof

Best for: Flexible joints (tiles around sinks), waterproofing repairs, sealing chips in sinks or baths, outdoor planters.

Why: Silicone remains flexible after curing, tolerates water, and is excellent for joints where some movement occurs. It seals rather than structurally repairs — ideal where a watertight joint matters more than strength.

Use tips: Use neutral-cure silicones (non-acidic) for ceramics to avoid etching or inhibiting certain finishes. Smooth with a soapy finger or tool. Not paintable (unless specialty RTV) and the bead will remain visible.

Limitations: Not structural. Avoid for precise, load-bearing ceramic joins.

4) Polyurethane adhesive — very strong, slightly flexible

Best for: Outdoor ceramic fixtures, garden statues, applications needing a gap-filler that is also waterproof.

Why: Polyurethane adhesives (the foamy type and the more controlled liquid variants) bond well to diverse substrates and remain somewhat flexible, resisting impacts and freeze–thaw cycles.

Use tips: Surfaces must be clean; moisture often accelerates cure (read instructions). Polyurethane foams expand — useful for filling voids but messy.

Limitations: Can be messy and difficult to sand/finish. Some formulations have strong odors during cure.

5) Ceramic tile adhesives (thinset mortar, mastic) — for tiling projects

Best for: Installing or repairing floor/wall tiles, mosaics, or heavy ceramic tiles.

Why: Thinset mortar (cementitious tile adhesive) is purpose-made — it bonds ceramic and porcelain tile to substrates, resists moisture, and is load-bearing. Mastic (organic adhesive) is easier to use for wall tiles but not suitable for wet areas.

Use tips: Use appropriate thinset for porcelain vs ceramic (porcelain is dense and may require polymer-modified thinset). Follow correct trowel notch sizes and grout after full cure.

Limitations: Thinset is not for repairing broken pottery — it’s for installation on floors/walls.

6) PVA (white glue) & wood glue — the DIY trap

Best for: Temporary craft projects with unglazed ceramics or porous terracotta.

Why: PVA can bond porous ceramics because it soaks in; it’s cheap and easy, but not waterproof and not strong enough for most practical repairs.

Use tips: Only use for non-functional, decorative pieces that won’t get wet or stressed.

Limitations: Not food-safe, not waterproof, weak bond.

7) Epoxy putty / ceramic repair compound — rebuild missing pieces

Best for: Reconstructing chips, resurfacing sinks/bathtubs, creating fillets around cracks.

Why: Epoxy putty can be kneaded and shaped, cures hard, sands, and accepts paint. Ceramic-specific repair compounds often match gloss and color.

Use tips: Shape the putty, allow partial cure for shaping, sand and color match with porcelain touch-up paints.

Limitations: Requires finishing work; may not achieve invisible repair without skill.

Preparing ceramic for a permanent, strong bond — a step-by-step checklist

Getting the right glue is only half the battle. Prep matters.

1. Clean thoroughly. Remove grease, dirt, old adhesive, and dust. Use isopropyl alcohol, acetone, or a mild detergent. For porcelain with residues, a light scuff with fine steel wool (if safe for glaze) can help.
2. Dry completely. Moisture ruins many adhesives and causes poor cure.
3. Fit first, then mark. Dry-fit the pieces so you know the exact orientation. Mark with pencil if needed.
4. Roughen glazed surfaces (carefully) for better mechanical grip — use fine grit sandpaper or a diamond needle if available.
5. Use clamps or tape. Even pressure during cure produces a better joint. For irregular shapes, use rubber bands or masking tape as straps.
6. Work room temperature. Adhesives cure best at recommended temps—avoid extremes.
7. Mix accurately. For two-part epoxies, follow the ratio exactly — errors compromise strength.
8. Remove squeeze-out. Use a solvent (per adhesive instructions) before full cure for a cleaner seam.

Step-by-step repair scenarios (practical how-tos)

Fixing a broken mug (glazed ceramic) — recommended: two-part epoxy

1. Clean chips and pieces; dry.
2. Fit pieces, note orientation.
3. Mix clear epoxy per instructions.
4. Apply a thin layer to each edge (capillary action helps).
5. Press together, wipe excess with alcohol.
6. Tape or clamp; allow recommended cure time (often 24 hours).
7. Sand/finish any rough areas; avoid food contact if the mug will be used for hot liquids.

Repairing a porcelain sink chip — recommended: epoxy putty or porcelain repair kit

1. Remove loose fragments; clean around the chip.
2. Mix epoxy repair putty; press into cavity and sculpt to match surrounding contour.
3. After full cure, sand smooth and apply touch-up glaze paint or polish.

Replacing a cracked floor tile — recommended: thinset mortar & grout

1. Remove broken tile and clean substrate.
2. Apply thinset with proper notch trowel.
3. Butter the tile and press into place, tapping with rubber mallet.
4. Allow to set, then grout and seal.

Outdoor statue bonding — recommended: marine epoxy or polyurethane adhesive

1. Clean pieces thoroughly of dirt and algae.
2. Use a waterproof epoxy with gap-filling properties.
3. Clamp and protect from rain during cure. Consider cosmetic touch-up with outdoor paints.

Special considerations: food safety, heat, and longevity

• Food contact: If repaired ceramic will touch food, avoid household superglues and many epoxies unless they are explicitly labeled FDA-approved for food contact after full cure. Even then, repaired dishware that will be heated (dishwasher, microwave, oven) is risky.
• Cookware: Avoid repairing pans used directly on stovetops — adhesives can fail and contaminate food. Replace compromised cookware.
• Heat exposure: Use high-temperature ceramic adhesives for elements exposed to heat; general epoxies may soften or discolour.
• Longevity: A well-done epoxy repair often lasts decades for decorative objects; outdoor and high-stress repairs have shorter life unless the correct adhesive is used.

Tools, supplies, and finishes that improve results

• Disposable mixing sticks & cups — for epoxies.
• Clamps, rubber bands, tape — for holding parts.
• Fine sandpaper & diamond files — for roughening and finishing.
• Isopropyl alcohol & acetone — cleaning solvents.
• Porcelain touch-up paints — for color matching.
• Clear acrylic sealer — for final cosmetic protection.
• Disposable gloves & ventilation — many adhesives have strong fumes.

Troubleshooting common problems

• Adhesive won’t cure properly: Check mix ratio and temperature. Old epoxy or contaminated surfaces cause failures.
• Bond feels weak: Surface contamination or slick glaze; roughen surfaces or use an adhesive primer.
• White bloom (CA glue): Wipe with acetone and use less glue next time; consider using a humidity-controlled accelerator instead.
• Visible seams: Sand lightly and fill with color-matched epoxy paint or porcelain repair paste.

When to skip the glue and replace the piece

Some situations are better replaced than repaired:

• Items used for hot food or frequent cooking.
• Structural plumbing ceramics (toilets with internal cracks): replace for safety.
• Fine china with missing priceless pieces — professional conservation may be better.
• Porcelain with multiple microfractures (stress damage) — replacement is safer.

Final practical tips (quick reference)

• For strong, long-lasting repairs: use a two-part epoxy (clear, non-yellowing).
• For fast small repairs: use cyanoacrylate, but avoid load or water exposure.
• For outdoor/wet items: use marine epoxy or polyurethane.
• For tile installation or replacement: use thinset (or mastic for dry walls).
• For flexible seams around sinks: use neutral-cure silicone.
• For rebuilding missing ceramic: use epoxy putty and finish with touch-up paint.

FAQs About What Glue to Use for Ceramic

1. What is the strongest glue for ceramic repair?

The strongest adhesive for ceramic repairs is typically a two-part epoxy resin. It forms a chemical bond that’s both waterproof and heat-resistant, making it ideal for structural repairs on ceramics. High-quality brands specifically labeled for ceramic or porcelain repair provide the best long-term durability and resistance to temperature changes.

2. Can I use super glue to fix ceramic?

Yes, you can use super glue (cyanoacrylate) for small cracks or decorative ceramics. It dries quickly and provides a decent hold for light-duty repairs. However, it’s not ideal for load-bearing or high-temperature items like cookware or mugs because it becomes brittle and may break down with heat or moisture over time.

3. Is epoxy glue safe for dishes or mugs?

Only FDA-approved food-safe epoxies are considered safe for dishes or mugs that come into direct contact with food. However, even food-safe epoxies should not be used on surfaces that will be heated, like inside a microwave or oven, as high temperatures can degrade the adhesive.

4. What glue works best for outdoor ceramic items?

For outdoor ceramics like garden pots or statues, marine-grade epoxy or polyurethane adhesive is the best option. These glues are waterproof, resistant to temperature fluctuations, and can withstand UV exposure and frost.

5. Can you use hot glue on ceramic?

While hot glue may stick temporarily, it’s not suitable for long-term ceramic repairs. The bond weakens quickly when exposed to heat, cold, or moisture. It’s better to use epoxy or super glue for a reliable, permanent repair.

6. How do you fix a chipped ceramic sink or tub?

To repair chips in sinks or tubs, use ceramic or porcelain repair epoxy putty. This compound can be molded to fill missing areas, then sanded smooth and coated with a color-matching glaze or touch-up paint to restore the surface’s shine and integrity.

7. How long should I wait for ceramic glue to cure completely?

Curing time depends on the adhesive type. Super glue typically sets within seconds but takes up to 24 hours for full strength. Epoxy needs 5–10 minutes to set and may require 24–48 hours to fully cure. Always check the product instructions for optimal curing conditions.

8. Can I repair ceramic cookware with glue?

It’s not recommended to repair cookware or bakeware that comes in contact with food or high heat. Adhesives can degrade and release harmful chemicals when heated. It’s safer to replace damaged cookware rather than attempt repairs.

9. Is there a clear glue for ceramic that doesn’t yellow?

Yes. Many modern clear epoxies are formulated with UV-resistant additives that prevent yellowing over time. These are excellent for decorative ceramics or glass-like finishes where you want the repair to remain invisible.

10. Can ceramic glue withstand dishwashing or boiling water?

Only high-quality waterproof epoxies can survive dishwashing or prolonged water exposure. Most other adhesives, like cyanoacrylate or PVA glues, weaken in hot or wet environments. If you plan to wash the item frequently, use a marine or heat-resistant epoxy and hand-wash gently to preserve the bond.

Conclusion

When it comes to repairing ceramics, there isn’t a one-size-fits-all answer — the right choice depends on the type of ceramic, extent of the damage, and how the item will be used afterward.

If you’re fixing a decorative figurine, super glue (cyanoacrylate) is quick and simple. For structural repairs or items that may see moisture or moderate heat, two-part epoxy remains the gold standard. Outdoor pieces benefit most from polyurethane or marine epoxy, while flexible joints around sinks and tubs call for neutral-cure silicone.

However, for cookware, mugs, or dishes that come into contact with food and heat, replacement is often the safest option — no glue is perfectly food-safe under repeated heat stress.

Ceramic, by nature, is a beautiful but brittle material. The right adhesive restores both its look and function — but patience, precision, and preparation matter as much as the glue itself. With the right materials and careful technique, you can bring even your most cherished ceramic pieces back to life, often stronger and longer-lasting than before.