If you’re working with high-fire ceramics, atmospheric firing, saggar firing, or wood-firing, you’ve probably wondered how to make wadding for ceramics—and how to do it correctly so your pieces stay protected in the kiln. Wadding seems simple on the surface: little clay balls or pads that keep pottery from sticking to kiln shelves during firing. But in reality, the quality, composition, and placement of wadding can make or break your final results.

A good wadding recipe prevents glaze runs from ruining shelves, protects your pottery surface, minimizes warping, and handles extreme temperatures without fusing to the ceramic body. And when you’re firing in soda, salt, wood ash, or even traditional gas kilns, wadding becomes a crucial part of the process.

This article goes deeper than any basic tutorial. You’ll learn:

• What wadding is
• Why it works
• The science behind a proper wadding mix
• How to choose the right ingredients
• Step-by-step instructions
• When and where to use it
• Different wadding types for different firing methods
• Mistakes people make
• Pro-level tips for predictable, clean results

Whether you’re a studio potter, hobbyist, experimental kiln-builder, or atmospheric-firing enthusiast, this guide will give you everything you need to make reliable, high-performance wadding right at home.

What Is Wadding in Ceramics?

Wadding is a heat-resistant clay mixture—usually made from refractory materials like alumina, grog, or kaolin—that is shaped into small pads or balls and placed between the ceramic piece and the kiln shelf during firing. Its purpose is to prevent pottery from sticking to shelves due to:

• Melting glazes
• Running slips
• Ash deposits
• Flux vapors (like soda or salt)
• Kiln wash imperfections
• High-temperature deformation

Without wadding, kilns and shelves would get damaged, pieces would fuse to surfaces, and even fast turnarounds would be impossible.

Think of wadding as the ceramic world’s version of heatproof “spacers.” They keep your pieces just lifted enough to protect both pottery and shelves.

Why Do Ceramists Use Wadding?

Although it might seem optional for electric kiln firings, wadding becomes nearly essential in many firing types. Here’s why it matters so much.

1. Prevents Glaze Sticking

Even glazes that aren’t supposed to run sometimes drip. A single glaze drip can permanently ruin a kiln shelf. Wadding catches that drip and keeps the pottery from fusing.

2. Protects Against Atmospheric Fluxing

In soda and salt kilns, surfaces become coated with flux vapor. This can turn every shelf into a sticky glaze trap. Wadding ensures your pieces don’t bond to those surfaces.

3. Elevates Pottery for Better Heat Circulation

Kilns with directional flame or atmospheric movement benefit from having pieces slightly lifted.

4. Controls Warping

Flat pieces—platters, tiles, wide bowls—love to warp. Strategically placed wadding reduces stress.

5. Supports Saggar Firing

Wadding seals saggar lids, spaces stacks, and prevents heat fusion.

6. Balances Uneven Foot Rings

Hand-built or wheel-thrown pieces can have slight irregularities. Wadding ensures stable firing.

7. Creates Aesthetic Flashing

In wood and soda firing, wadding marks are often considered decorative. You can intentionally place wadding to control patterns and ash shadows.

The Science Behind High-Quality Ceramic Wadding

You can mix wadding using dozens of recipes, but understanding why each ingredient matters will help you create the perfect version for your firing style.

Wadding must be:

• Refractory – able to withstand extremely high temperatures
• Non-reactive – not melting, absorbing glaze, or fusing
• Stable – not shrinking excessively
• Porous – making it easier to remove later
• Low in fluxes – to prevent melting
• Thermally robust – not expanding enough to crack pottery

Let’s break down the materials.

Essential Ingredients for Making Wadding

1. Alumina Hydrate

Alumina is the superstar of wadding. It’s ultrarefractory, smooth, and releases easily from shelves after firing. Because it doesn’t melt—even at extreme temperatures—it prevents sticking.

Use alumina hydrate for:

• High-fire electric kilns
• Soda firing
• Salt firing
• Wood firing

The more alumina in your mix, the more non-stick your wadding becomes.

2. Kaolin (EPK or Grolleg)

Kaolin adds clay body and plasticity. Pure alumina won’t hold shape, so kaolin helps bind everything.

Kaolin:

• Provides structural integrity
• Controls moisture level
• Shrinks moderately but predictably

EPK is the most common, but other kaolins work fine.

3. Grog

Grog consists of already-fired clay particles that won’t shrink or melt. It stabilizes the wadding and gives it slight tooth without making it abrasive.

Benefits:

• Reduces shrinkage
• Helps wadding pop off easily
• Handles high temperatures
• Prevents cracking under heavy pieces

4. Sand (Silica)

Some potters use silica sand for grit. It’s highly heat-resistant but not essential if using grog.

Be mindful though: silica dust is hazardous, so handle carefully.

Optional Additives

Sawdust

Used in wood firing for a loose wadding mix. It burns out and leaves insulating pockets.

Paper Pulp

Adds softness and makes the wadding easier to knead.

Fireclay

Adds durability but increases shrinkage—a potential risk if used too heavily.

Salt or Soda Ash

Never used in wadding. These materials melt—avoid entirely.

Choosing the Right Wadding Type for Your Firing Style

Not all wadding is created equal. The recipe you use should depend on your kiln and firing method.

1. Electric Kiln Wadding

Electric firings are clean and involve no flux vapors.

Use:

• High alumina + kaolin + a bit of grog
• Minimal additives

Purpose:

• Prevent glaze runs
• Lift flat pieces
• Avoid shelf damage

2. Gas Kiln Wadding

Gas kilns can have uneven heat distribution.

Use:

• Alumina
• Kaolin
• Grog
• Optional sand

Purpose:

• Elevate work for better heat flow
• Prevent sticking
• Avoid warping

3. Wood Firing Wadding

Wood kilns expose pieces to ash, embers, and extreme temperatures.

Use:

• Alumina
• Kaolin
• Grog
• Sawdust (optional, burns out to increase insulation)

Purpose:

• Resist ash melt
• Create wadding marks for flashing
• Protect from fusing

4. Soda or Salt Firing Wadding

These firings produce high levels of flux vapors.

Use:

• High-alumina mix
• Zero silica sand
• Zero fireclay
• No melt-prone materials

Purpose:

• Prevent wadding from melting or fusing
• Keep wadding non-fluxing

This is the highest-performance wadding you’ll make.

The Ultimate DIY Wadding Recipe (Studio-Proven)

Here is a versatile, reliable recipe that works across multiple firing styles.

Base Formula

• 50% Alumina hydrate
• 25% EPK (or other kaolin)
• 25% Fine grog

Add water slowly until moldable but not sticky.

Why this works

• High alumina = non-stick and high-temperature stability
• Kaolin binds it together
• Grog reduces shrinkage and cracking
• Water helps shape but evaporates evenly

This formula is easy to make, easy to use, and easy to remove after firing.

Step-by-Step: How to Make Wadding for Ceramics

Let’s walk through the complete process for crafting consistent, dependable wadding.

Step 1: Prepare a Clean Workspace

Wadding requires careful handling to avoid inhaling fine particles. Prepare a workspace with:

• Gloves
• A mask
• A bowl or bucket
• A clean table

Keep the area free of drafts to minimize airborne dust.

Step 2: Measure the Dry Ingredients

Accurate ratios matter. Use measuring cups or a small scale. Combine:

• Alumina hydrate
• Kaolin
• Grog

Mix with your hand or a dry spoon until the powders are evenly distributed.

Step 3: Add Water Slowly

Start by adding a small amount of water. Wadding should be:

• Moldable, like firm clay
• Not sticky
• Not crumbly

If your mix cracks when shaped, add slightly more water. If it feels wet, add more alumina or grog.

Step 4: Knead the Mixture

Use your hands to thoroughly knead the wadding. This ensures:

• Even moisture distribution
• No dry pockets
• No lumps of alumina

The texture should resemble:

• Play-Doh
• Firm modeling clay
• Slightly gritty ceramic clay

Step 5: Shape the Wadding

Wadding can be shaped into:

• Balls
• Pads
• Rings
• Square blocks
• Custom shapes (triangles, points, strips)

For general pottery:

Use small balls about the size of a grape.

For platters or large slabs:

Flatten discs so the weight is distributed.

For saggar sealing:

Roll out thin coils.

For stacking:

Use consistent shapes for stability.

Step 6: Let Wadding Partially Dry (Optional)

Some potters prefer wadding slightly stiff; others prefer it fresh. You can:

• Use immediately
• Let it firm up for 1–4 hours
• Let it dry overnight for hard wads

Drier wadding leaves cleaner marks and is easier to remove.

Step 7: Apply Wadding to Your Pottery

Before placing your pieces in the kiln:

• Slightly dampen the area where wadding will attach
• Press the wadding gently onto the pot
• Ensure the pieces sit level on the shelf

Spacing matters. For bowls, use three evenly spaced wads. For plates, use four to avoid warping.

Step 8: Fire Your Kiln as Usual

Wadding stays attached during:

• Bisque firing
• Glaze firing
• Wood or atmospheric firing

It withstands extreme heat and protects both the pottery and shelves.

Step 9: Remove Wadding After Firing

After cooling:

• Gently pry wadding off
• Use a metal rib for stuck pieces
• Sand lightly if necessary

Proper wadding rarely sticks or leaves residue.

Advanced Wadding Techniques

If you want to elevate your firing results, try these refined techniques.

1. Flashing Control Wadding

Used in wood and soda firing, this method involves intentionally placing wadding where ash or soda will create color variation. Choose shapes that complement the design.

2. Adhesive Slip for Wadding

For vertical surfaces or sculptures:

• Mix kaolin slip
• Dab where wadding will attach
• Press wadding into the slip

This prevents falling during firing.

3. Fiber-Reinforced Wadding

Add paper pulp to make wadding stick better to curved shapes. This is useful for unusual forms or stacked firing.

4. Saggar Lid Sealing Wadding

Apply soft wadding around the joint of the lid to:

• Trap atmosphere
• Prevent air leaks
• Maintain reducing or smoke conditions

5. Shelf-Protection Wadding

Create flat pads that stay on the shelf instead of the pot. These can be reused, especially in electric kilns.

Common Mistakes When Making Ceramic Wadding

Avoid these pitfalls:

Mistake 1: Adding too much clay

This causes the wadding to shrink and fuse to the pot.

Mistake 2: Using silica sand in soda or salt firing

Silica will melt and glue the piece to the shelf.

Mistake 3: Using wet wadding

Wet wadding makes pieces slip or warp.

Mistake 4: Making wadding too big

Oversized wads leave large marks and may cause cracking.

Mistake 5: Using low-fire clay

It melts in high-temp firings.

Mistake 6: Uneven placement

This causes leaning or warping of bowls and plates.

What Can You Make Wadding For?

Wadding enhances:

• Wheel-thrown pots
• Hand-built plates
• Slab trays
• Vases
• Tiles
• Sculptures
• Saggar boxes
• Stacking forms
• Wood-fire pieces
• Salt and soda test tiles

The versatility is endless.

FAQs About Making Wadding for Ceramics

1. What is wadding used for in ceramics?

Wadding is used as a heat-resistant buffer between your pottery and the kiln shelf. It prevents glaze drips, ash, or flux vapors from bonding pieces to shelves during firing. It also elevates pottery for better heat flow and reduces warping, especially during wood, soda, salt, and high-fire gas firings.

2. Can I use regular clay instead of wadding?

Regular clay is not recommended. It shrinks significantly and can fuse to both pottery and shelves, causing damaging adhesion. Wadding uses refractory materials like alumina and grog specifically because they do not melt or shrink in the kiln.

3. Does wadding melt during firing?

No—proper wadding is designed to withstand extreme temperatures. As long as it contains high alumina and low-flux ingredients, it remains stable and non-melting even in wood, salt, and soda kilns.

4. Do I need wadding for electric kiln firings?

You don’t always need wadding in an electric kiln, but it’s smart to use it if:

• Your glaze might run
• You’re firing a large platter or tile
• Your piece needs better airflow
• You want to prevent warping
  Many potters use small wads routinely just for peace of mind.

5. How many wads should I place under a piece?

This depends on the piece:

• Bowls and cups: Three evenly spaced wads
• Plates and platters: Three or four, depending on size
• Large slabs: Four to six wads
• Tall vases: Three for leveling

Symmetry helps ensure stability and even heat distribution.

6. Can wadding leave marks on my pottery?

Yes, wadding can leave small circular or padded impressions where it touches the piece. In wood or soda firing, these marks are often considered desirable because they create natural flashing patterns. If you don’t want marks, place wadding on unglazed footrings.

7. Should wadding be used wet or dry?

Slightly firm but still shapeable wadding is ideal. Very wet wadding can deform, while bone-dry wadding may pop off your pot before firing. Most potters let wadding rest for 1–4 hours before applying.

8. How do I remove wadding after the firing?

After cooling, wadding usually pops off easily by hand. Stubborn wads can be removed using:

• A metal rib
• A dull chisel
• Gentle sanding

Properly mixed wadding should not stain or scratch your pottery.

9. Can I reuse wadding?

Generally no. Fired wads crumble or lose structure. However, shelf-protecting “pads” made of alumina and grog can sometimes be reused in electric kilns.

10. What happens if I use silica sand in soda or salt firing?

Silica will melt at high temperatures in the presence of sodium vapor, turning your wadding into a glue trap. This can permanently fuse your piece to the shelf. For soda or salt firing, always avoid silica-rich ingredients.

Conclusion

Knowing how to make wadding for ceramics gives you an incredible amount of control over your firing results, whether you’re working in a home studio or a professional atmospheric kiln. Wadding may seem like a small part of the process, but it plays a huge role in protecting your pottery, preserving kiln shelves, elevating pieces for more even heat flow, and shaping the final aesthetic—especially in wood, soda, and salt firings.

By choosing the right ingredients, mixing the recipe properly, and placing wadding strategically, you can fire with confidence. Your pieces remain stable, glazes stay clean, shelves stay safe, and your final surface effects develop exactly how you want them to. Whether you’re sealing saggars, preventing glaze runs, avoiding warping, or aiming for intentional flashing marks, high-quality wadding gives you reliable, repeatable results every time.

With the knowledge in this guide, you’re fully equipped to create your own custom wadding for any ceramic firing style—electric, gas, wood, salt, or soda. And as you experiment, you’ll discover how even small adjustments in your wadding recipe can unlock new creative possibilities inside the kiln.